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Thorogood Shoes

Frequently Asked Questions

Thorogood boots generally run about a half size large, so most buyers order a half size down from their normal shoe size. The American Heritage moc toe in particular is known for a roomy toe box, which is part of the appeal for people who want their toes to splay rather than sit pinched. Widths run D and EE across most of the line, with 4E on selected models, so if you are between sizes it is usually better to drop the half size and take the wider width than to size up.
Many Thorogood boots are made in the USA at the company's own Wisconsin factories, and those models are labeled as such in the product title. The American Heritage, 1957 Series, Genesis Series, American Legacy, American Union Series, and Hammerhead lines are the domestic ones. Other parts of the range, including several duty and tactical models, are built overseas. Our Thorogood USA made collection separates them out so you are not guessing from the title.
A moc toe is a genuine construction detail rather than a stitched-on decoration: the leather is wrapped and hand-stitched around the front of the foot, which builds a rounder, higher, roomier toe box than a standard closed-toe last. Thorogood has built the American Heritage moc toe since the 1950s and it has become the shape most people picture when they hear the brand name. Carpenters and tradespeople favor it because the extra toe room is noticeably more comfortable when you spend the day kneeling. Browse the full Thorogood moc toe range.
MAXwear is Thorogood's flat wedge outsole, and it is the sole under most of the American Heritage line. A wedge runs flat from heel to toe with no separated heel block, so the whole footprint meets the ground at once and spreads your weight instead of driving it through a heel. That is why it is the standard choice on concrete, finished floors, and roof decks, and why it is the wrong choice on ladder rungs and loose broken ground. Compare the wedge models against the heeled and lugged options before you decide.
The Goodyear welted Thorogood boots can be resoled, and that covers most of the USA-made classic lines. A Goodyear welt stitches a leather welt around the perimeter of the boot, so a cobbler can cut the stitching, remove the worn outsole, and stitch a new one on without disturbing the upper. Thorogood also operates its own recrafting service. Cemented models elsewhere in the range are not built for it, so check the construction on the product page before you buy on the assumption you will rebuild them.
Most people report a break-in of one to two weeks on the USA-made leather models, and the boots keep improving well past that. These are heavy full-grain uppers on a welted platform, so the leather has to soften and the footbed has to compress before the boot conforms to your foot. Wearing them for shorter stretches over the first several days is easier on your feet than a full ten-hour shift on day one. The Genesis and duty models with softer uppers break in faster.
Nano Toe is Thorogood's own composite safety toe, built from a non-metallic compound and rated to ASTM F2413 for impact and compression, the same standard steel meets. It is lighter than steel and does not conduct heat or cold, which matters on outdoor work in either extreme. It also will not set off a walk-through metal detector on its own, though a metal shank or eyelets elsewhere in the boot still can, so a composite toe alone is not a guarantee of a metal-free boot. See the full Thorogood safety toe range.
A large part of the line is waterproof, and the Iron River models use genuine Gore-Tex rather than a generic membrane. Waterproofing shows up across American Heritage, 1957 Series, Genesis, Job Site, American Legacy, Hammerhead, and the Deuce and Station duty boots. The rest are water-resistant leather, which sheds rain and handles damp ground but will eventually wet through in standing water. If wet ground is your daily condition, work from the Thorogood waterproof range rather than from the general catalog.
Thorogood sits at the upper end of mid-price work boots, and the case for the cost is that the USA-made welted models are rebuildable rather than disposable. A boot you resole two or three times over a decade works out cheaper per year than replacing a cemented boot annually, provided you actually send them out for recrafting. Buyers consistently rate the American Heritage line highly for comfort on concrete once broken in. If you want the look and the domestic build without the welt, the Genesis and Job Site lines cost less.
Both are USA-made moc toe boots, and the difference is mainly the leather and the finish. The American Heritage is the classic tobacco oil-tanned line, and it is the volume seller. The 1957 Series uses a different leather package and a slightly more finished look, aimed at buyers who want the boot to work off the jobsite as well as on it. The underlying construction, the welt, and the wedge sole are shared, so the choice is about the leather and the price rather than about durability.

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